Front Brake Pad Replacement – I found myself in urgent need of new brake pads at MG 2012 in Dillard GA. I hadn’t checked these before the trip. A few days in the Blue Ridge Mountains and I was hearing metal on metal! My pads were probably still the originals from the factory, I had not changed them before. So something of an initiation by fire in the hotel parking lot. Also, no shortage of onlookers and advice. I chose to just listen to my friend Robert Rushing.

Step 1 – Remove Wheel #
Obviously you need to remove the wheel to gain access. Now you can see the cotter pins and the spring plates they retain. Also the tip of the brake pads. This gets you started on Front Brake Pad Replacement.

Step 2 – Remove Cotter Pins & Spring Plates #
This shows the 2 cotter (split) pins having been removed and also the spring plate removed.

Step 3 – Getting the Pistons Into the Caliper #
In order to remove the pads, you need some clearance. Pry, or as shown use channel lock pliers on the pad tabs to squeeze the pistons back. Repeat for both sides/both pads.
Caution! When doing this you are forcing brake fluid back into the brake master cylinder. Make sure the master doesn’t overflow. Also remove/loosen the cap of the master to let air out as the fluid expands. Take paint protection measures. This article on MGB Front Brakes has advice from John Twist.

Step 4 – Remove Old Pads #
Now the old pads should be easy to withdraw from the caliper. Very little brake material left on this pad. Sadly this was one of the better ones. This confirmed the need to replace them.

Step 5 – New Pads #
Insert the new pads and make sure the braking material is against the rotor. Massive choices of pads. I used Wagner PD27 and they have been great.

Step 6 – Springs & Cotter Pins #
Reinstall the springs and ideally use new cotter pins. Since this was on the road, parking lot repair, emergency, I had to re-use the cotter pins.

Step 7 – Brake Pad Break-In #
Follow the brake pad manufacturers instructions for break in. I did mine on the 90 minute drive over to Tail of the Dragon US 129. Another reason for dealing with the brake pads urgently.
The Wagner PD27 advice is to perform a break-in (burnish) cycle to seat the friction materials into the opposing rotor for improved braking power. Wagner recommends making approximately 20 complete stops from 30mph to ensure the friction materials conform to the surface of the rotor.
Other Materials #
I’ve built this website and spent time on the knowledge base to bring together a lot of information I have collected from around the internet. The intent is making it easy to find rather than having to know about and have skills with search engine query terms to get what you were looking for. Please make use of the knowledge base.